We woke up in the campground in Myvatn.
Dave was ready for action immediately upon waking – time to hike a
volcano! We decided to pass up the chance to shower at the campground
since we'd had the chance to shower and soak at the nature baths the
day before. I made us some coffee and we threw down some skyr and
Dave drove us the short way over to the volcano.When we arrived,
there was one other car there-- always good to have places to
ourselves. It felt pretty warm but it was windy so we got our jackets
and hats and the usual assortment of snacks and water bottles and
started walking up.
In the “you know you're not in N.
America” moment for the day, we laughed that the book stated this
hike was “easy”. Yeah. In a sense, it was. There weren't huge
rocks to scramble over, nor was there a soul-crushing view straight
off a cliff from the teeny tiny trail. But it was a long, steep climb
upon volcanic gravel. Most people wouldn't think it was easy.
Thankfully, we aren't most people. We cruised to the top. Here's what
we saw.
This first pic is actually from the night before, around midnight.
We walked part of the way around –
between 1/3 and 1/2, I'd say. It was cool to see some of the places
we'd visited the day before from up top – I could see the smokey
pools at the nature baths quite well through my binoculars.
We rolled on back down to the RV –
quite a few people had arrived in the meantime and the tour buses
were coming in. The tour buses are interesting. Where the heck are
they coming from!?!? Some places we'd been, the tour buses were day
trips out of Reykjavik. Today, our hunch was cruise ships in Akureyri (sounds like mortuary).
We hadn't yet been to the second largest city in Iceland, but we were
heading that way once we finished at Myvatn.
We briefly stopped into another little
tourist spot – mainly to use the WC and take a peek inside the
little gift shop. While browsing, I found these – another example
of the fabulous sense of humor the Icelanders have. It's witty but
not raunchy. I love it.
So, another interesting thing about
Icelanders is that many of them (perhaps as much as 50%) believe in
trolls:) I find this ridiculously endearing. We definitely have seen
little caves or “houses” in the sides of mountains or hills that
could be troll homes! Anyway, part of the country's folklore are the
13 yuletide lads. This little gift shop had a lot of Christmas stuff
– so I spent some time looking through the books and reading up on
the 13 lads. Pretty fun! Want to order this book to read at
Christmastime.
From there, we cruised over to a neat
set of short hiking trails around the lake itself. Good grief was I
glad we had the mosquito nets. The midges were nuts over there! Check
out how awesome we look in our nets!
This is a good time to talk about how
quiet Iceland is. I know I've mentioned it before in passing. As I
stood overlooking Lake Myvatn, I realized there was no sound. I could
hear myself inhale and exhale. Occasionally, I could hear a bird
chirping in a nearby tree. It was the most exquisite, blissful quiet
I think I'd ever experienced. This has been true over and over again
in this country. Even in a crowded restaurant, it will be so quiet
we'll feel we need to whisper. And it isn't weird nor does it feel
creepy or bad – it's beautiful. People are social and friendly and
kind...but quiet. There is no loud thumping music, no rambunctious
cacophony blaring from TVs everywhere, no children screaming and
crying everywhere we went. Seldom do we get the chance to experience
the peacefulness of such intense quietness. I was reminded of these
little rooms in the Bible and Business buildings on campus at ACU
where I got my bachelor's degree. They were called the quiet rooms.
Each one was decorated differently – even down to what furniture
might be in the room. There was no talking in there. You could go and
sit and just be still and escape whatever you left upon entering.
Imagine a whole country of that – welcome to Iceland.
Anyway, it was getting to be time for
lunch and we needed to either eat in Myvatn or wait a bit until we
rolled into Akureyri. We decided to go ahead and eat. We first went
to the place the book recommended. There were only 3 choices and it
only recommended one:) Well, they weren't really open, per se. The
waitress went and talked to someone in the kitchen who graciously
offered to feed us soup and bread but they told us they were actually
not open to the public until dinner. Man. We love Iceland. That just
wouldn't happen in the US. We politely thanked them but declined and
went across the street to try our luck there. A rather inpatient
looking man with long hair slicked back into a ponytail gave us the
stink eye. What's with this section of town? They allowed us to dine
on the lunch buffet only – no menu. We noticed most of the tables
were reserved – the tour buses were coming. We tried to eat fast so
we'd be done before they arrived.
Good buffet – salad bar with lots of
yummy stuff including olives, fresh sheep's milk feta, lots of
veggies – even beets! Mushroom soup. Trout. Potatoes. Seafood
casserole. And then a tiny section of true Icelandic fare, including
the infamous putrefied shark, liver sausage, and some other less
tasty sounding items.
Now we were ready to leave Myvatn and
head to the big city. Since it had already been a week since we seen
a big city we were pretty shocked when we got there. We hadn't seen
this many people since the day we arrived nor had we any encountered
stoplights. We followed the blue sign with a little i on it meaning
information center until we found a really large building right on
the harbor front. We parked Mr. happy and walked around trying to
figure out where the information center was exactly -- good grief
these big cities are complicated! Finally figured it out, went inside
and there was a nice big information center and gift shop. Of course,
first we went downstairs to use the WC. this is a really good example
of what most of the WC's. Generally speaking if you've been to IKEA
and you think about the things that they sell and that style then
you'll have an understanding of how pretty much everything looks in
Iceland – even the WC's:)
We went back to the information center.
We wanted to ask someone about taking a day trip up to the Arctic
Circle. We also wanted to find out where we could get a good cup of
coffee. we looked around the shop for a moment and then it was our
turn to speak to someone. The shop was pretty crowded that day –
but as we parked the car looking at the harbor front, we did notice
there was a huge cruise ship in port. We talked to a really nice girl
who gave us the scoop on going to the Arctic Circle. She also gave us
a map and talked at length about the best places in town to get a
good cup of coffee. Apparently when you ask her where to get a good
cup of coffee you're going to get along detailed response -- this
woman knew her coffee.
So, we took off looking for one of the
places she recommended. It was only a couple blocks away so we left
Mr. happy parked where he was. Before long we found the hostile which
had a coffee shop on the front facing the street. We went in and
ordered two carrot cake slices and 2 cups of coffee. We chose a spot
right by the front window so we could watch the hustle and bustle on
the main street. As we were sitting there, the strangest thing
happened. In all of Iceland we really knew one person -- we met him
the day we arrived. He picked us up at the airport and took us to get
Mr. Happy. As we sat there in a completely different town more than a
week later -- he walked by. We just couldn't believe it! What are the
chances? Ha! So funny!
After we finished up our afternoon
cake, we walked out and decided to take the main street back the
opposite way from which we came. It really was a cute street lined
with shops and restaurants. We realized we didn't really know the
custom for how to cross the street as a pedestrian. Some of the
intersections had stoplights that would give us a walk indicator
light. Sometimes, they didn't. In those instances it was very helpful
when a local was also waiting there with us and we just followed
them. As we got to the end of the street, all of a sudden there was
Sverir again! He was everywhere!
So we went back to Mr. happy and it was
time to leave town for a bit. Oh we'd be back and probably tomorrow
but tonight we knew we were heading to Godafoss. We drove back along
the fjord and pulled over briefly at this cute little spot just off
the road. There happened to be a man there shellacking the picnic
bench it was an older man was just standing there with a little
bucket of shellac happily painting the bench his wife was waiting for
him in the car park there nearby. Dave stepped out to take a few
photos and the man struck up a conversation with. Turns out the park
was created by the local Rotary club. Or was it the Lions? Whatever.
He was a really nice man and he told us to take a walk back into the
trees and we'd see some more waterfalls – it was just a very
beautiful place to take a walk. Here's what we found.
But afterwards Dave asked the man where
we might find a restroom. The man started giving us directions to the
nearest restaurant so that wasn't quite helpful. We did notice that
there was a swimming pool nearby so we decided to go there and check
it out. The town swimming pool was in fact nearby. And it happened to
be right next door to the camping ground. We pulled in and went
inside to the bathroom areas and were delighted to find showers also
inside. And even better the showers were free. We didn't want to take
a shower right then, but we thought this is exactly where we can come
back tomorrow to take one!
Dave had found a little area that he
wanted to go visit and thought it would be a good spot to have
dinner. We headed that way. We came across this really cute little
church in these cute grass covered houses. These places were actually
a little hotel but no one was there when we pulled up. We had a nice
dinner.
Now was time to head back to Godafoss.
We were hoping that when we got there there wouldn't be many people
there. Was just a short drive back and before long there we were. Now
Godafoss is another large, popular, infamous waterfall. But as we've
seen before, it was just off the road and barely marked. Just before
it or after it (depending on which way you're driving) there's a gas
station and a small campground. Otherwise there's nothing else
around. It was another you're not in North America moment to have
something this huge and amazing and have a teeny tiny little sign and
really no infrastructure built up telling you that you're there. I
love it.
There were quite a few people there.
Including small mini campers like ours parked in the main lot. We
wondered how many of them would try to stay overnight despite the no
camping signs. There were no bathrooms in the main lot you had to go
all the way back over near the gas station and campground-- that's
another indication you're not North America! It would never be
required to walk that far –haha. We decided to move the RV
over by the bathrooms in the campground. Once we were all set we
walked out to look at the falls for a bit. Dave of course stayed out
for hours taking pictures on both sides of the falls. I came back to
Mr. happy, washed up the dishes, got everything prepared for bed, and
did some reading and writing for a while. The light was particularly
good tonight and I figured Dave was having a fantastic time taking
pictures. Before long he was back. He threw the door open and said,
“Tonight I'm like Donna Summer! I was working hard for my money!
Whew!”
It was another good day of exploration
in Iceland. And another good night of picture taking. As we lay down
and Mr. happy to go to sleep, we felt very thankful for our sleep
masks. Dave pointed out that we hadn't even named our sleep masks and
that we must do so. He said, “Clearly, my velvet love mask is named
Luther because he provides me the sweet comfort of silky darkness.”
And I said, “Well, my sleep mask's name is Cedric.”
And so Dave, Luther, Cedric and I went
to sleep.
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